Hidden away down a backstreet in Sandiacre, an unremarkable town between Nottingham and Derby, this restaurant shows that a restaurateur’s vision can work in any location given ambition, flair and a highly talented kitchen.

That said, the small building that houses La Rock is a pleasing and distinctive space (with a large, free car park opposite). It used to be a slaughterhouse many years ago, but has been transformed into an intimate and sophisticated restaurant with exposed brickwork, atmospheric lighting and a cool bar. Offering 40 covers, La Rock is small but nicely done.